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msb64

Canada Region
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About msb64

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    Team Shelby Member

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  • Region
    Canada
  • Interests
    Racing

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  1. Looks like you have all the parts, although I think your hp estimate is low, with all those goodies you should be closer to 700rwhp. I have stock exhaust manifolds, stock cats, all stock pipes right to the back, only change I made in the exhaust was from the stock GT500 mufflers to the Ford Racing KR ones. I made a typo on the injectors, I have the Ford 56lb injectors they offered with their 800hp kit. Eventually I'd like to go bigger on those, but do not need to push things at this time. I feel that I am already too close to the safe HP limit for my stock long block. I haven't dynoed my car w
  2. I have been running pretty much the same setup for some time now, with a few small variances like VMP Gen2 blower instead, and I am still running the full stock exhaust except for switching to KR style mufflers for better flow. Everything else you listed is the same as I have been running, other items that come to mind are colder plugs, 57 lb injectors, 94 octane e10 fuel, 10% over lower and Nitto 555R 285 drag radials. Mine has plenty of torque at almost any rpm, and can easily overwhelm the drag radials on the street or strip if I launch at anything over 2500 rpm. Last time out to the strip
  3. Sounds like a nice car, and at a nice power level too. Strongly agree with 1 Alibi 2, take inventory of your mods, many of which you can identify yourself too. Common engine upgrades for that power level are: Blower (you have already indicated) Injectors CAI Throttle body Oversized lower pulley Upper pulley Tune for available fuel Fuel pump boosters Other items to look for are: Heat exchanger PCV oil interceptor (passenger side) At that power level (700HP crank or higher) also look for 1 piece aluminum or carbon fiber driveshaft Aftermarket steel or billet lower contr
  4. From last year, my GT500 vs Camaro at 5:15 and against a Super Cobra Jet at 5:58. Driving the car off the line and into 2nd gear as my Nitto 285 555Rs will not hold hard launches or fast shifts even at the strip.
  5. The ported M-122 is a bit of an unknown but the rest looks straight forward. I would estimate around 560 rwhp with that combo, and you have good cooling mods to deal with heat soak.
  6. Those are great numbers, the mph indicating plenty of HP too. I am stuck in the low 11s, can't seem to get a decent 60 foot time at our local track with the car setup like it is. I remember plugs in the past with multiple electrodes, but can't remember which one they are. After reading up a bit on the E3s, they do sound interesting. With their rigid electrode design, I wonder if you can close up the gap for higher boost applications, or do they have to make them with smaller gaps?
  7. Long time drag race fan myself, E3 is one of the more recent sponsers, as well as Denso. If you notice racers have also endorsed NGK and AC Delco and some others that escape me, now and in the past. Some others are less obvious if they are not big dollar sponsers, don't forget they get paid to run those stickers, the bigger the stickers the larger the sponsorship dollars. The Ford oem platinum plugs work just fine, just remember to go a step colder and reduce gap at higher than stock boost levels. At higher boost levels you should also be changing them out more frequently too. It shouldn'
  8. I live in a moderate climate which usually is only in the 70s F in the summer, so cooling is not much of an issue for me so far. I am still running all stock components for that, and even with numerous back to back passes at the strip, never noticed signs of heat soak (such as reduced mph). It all depends on the climate where you live though, I always like to play it on the safe side if you can afford it. Never hurts to ask BJ or Justin at VMP for advice on that, they do mods like that every day and will have a lot of experience in that regard. Personally I love the KR mufflers, and want t
  9. Should also mention as an added precaution, I set my raptor shift light to 5800 and lowered my rev limiter to 6100 rpm. No need to push the rpms with that kind of torque and hp in a street car. Driving the car off the line I am at just over 127mph in the quarter so far, haven't been back to the track since I installed the heavy duty VMP tensioner.
  10. That was VMPs recommended limit, and I don't like to push the edge. I went with the 10% over lower mainly for the added motor protection of a high quality dampener. It is a bit cranky to install with hand tools, I needed a 3 foot extension on my biggest breaker bar to get it loose, and had to put the car in 6th gear with ebrake and blocks to keep the car from moving. I am not a fan of using impact tools on any motor, especially on the crank, and torque everything I can with a torque wrench. I installed a new torque to yield dampener bolt, and that was easier than breaking the oem one loose
  11. Fortunately for all Photobucket or other similar apps are not required Save any image to your desktop (or wherever you want) and then upload it to the Shelby site from there.
  12. I am running their 820HP for 2 years now, although I went the route of piecing it together part by part as I went along. It looks like their current package price is a better deal. The 820HP kit essentially has the same major hard parts as the 720HP kit, other than the fuel and spark mods and a tune adjustment. I feel the pump boosters and injectors are a must, as you defintely don't want to run into a fuel delivery/lean issue, it cant destroy pistons and cylinder head parts in no time. Generally when you go to significantly higher boost, you go one step colder with the plugs and reduce th
  13. In post 7 & 8 of this thread, Bikeboy shows photos of his cars with the H&H springs installed in the rear http://www.teamshelby.com/forums/index.php/topic/91262-lower-rear-of-2007-gt500/ Brings the back end down just enough to get rid of the "Hot Wheel" look.
  14. Pic 7 is your panhard bar, that is a double adjustable model which means that you can adjust it while it is still on the car, that is a good piece. Pic 8 shows poly joints at the front end of your LCAs, which is a good blend of performance and streetability, also a good piece. Pic 9 (same as Pic 6) is your adjustable Upper Control Arm attached to a heavy duty Upper Control Arm Bracket, both are good pieces as well. I would keep all of those pieces on the car (including driveshaft), and remove the bolt-on lowering brackets, you can sell those off (approx $120 for new ones). Once you get the
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